By Alex Marchand and Samir Alam
The streets of Chittaranjan Park, New Delhi are nowhere to be seen as thousands of people crowd the space in their final farewell to Durga Ma (Goddess Mother). Amongst the bright lights and smoke that marks the end of the four day celebration of Durga Puja; the entire Bengali borough of C.R. Park is aglow with festivity. After journeying through endless rows of devotees and processions the awe inspiring plaster homage of Ma Durga makes itself visible in its pandal (worship tent) abode.
The massive statue is not only a great attraction but also a source of joy and prayer to many. As it over sees the dogmatic worship of the people below littered around are pundits (priests) who adorn the statue with crowns of flowers. Auspicious tikkas are bestowed on all those who come up to see Her, as a lively festival of dance is underway on a stage nearby, captivating the audience - “in the honor of the Mother, the Druga goddess”.
The scene almost seems stereotypical of what tourist guides proclaim to be the Indian experience and subsequently scores of Westerners travel to see. And yet something is clearly amiss.
“Festive Discounts” and other “Special Offers”
Significant spaces in and around the pandals are littered with commercial stalls. Miniature shops sell everything from insurance, televisions and bank accounts to toys for little kids.
Loud and obnoxious billboards, either in English or Bengali, are seen at every step. And as the last few weeks have turned into the final days, the advertisers have kept themselves busy by offering “Festive Discounts” and “Special Offers” in light of the religious celebrations.
And in an ironically unifying manner it is not only Indian companies that are represented here. Numerous multinationals also fall in line and attempt to gain as much as they can from the religion. When asked, Joy Bondyopadhyay, a representative at a telecommunications product stall explains:
“To organize such a grand festival one needs resources. One needs sponsorship and we are here to help the organizers. It also provides an occasion to promote our company; as it is people tend to shop and spend more at the time of Durga Puja.”
A man sitting at the Ramakrishna Mission, Ashim Tanguluy, a senior veteran of Durga Puja celebrations insists:
“We come here each Durga Puja. The business belongs to the festival, go to the villages of inner Bengal and you will see that it is exactly the same.”
When asked about the conflict between business and spirituality he replies, “No! Enthusiasm is always there. It is a celebration of joy; we celebrate the return of the Mother!”
“One comes here for the entertainment”
There are children running around with balloons and cotton candy. Traditional elegantly colored saris find place alongside tight jeans and t-shirts. The shouts of street vendors are echoing down to the unsuspecting crowds. It seems more of a street party rather than a religious festival.
“The people coming here are very sincere, they come here to pray” assures Samrat, 21 year old business student from Assam. But when one asked to explain the story behind the festival he becomes far less loquacious:
“The Durga goddess beat the demon and then… uh… I do not know much more, it is complicated.”
Until he finally admits: “Yes it is true, one comes here for the entertainment.”
And from a distance the sound of a Bengali rock group can be heard as they replace the dancers in the honor of Ma Durga.
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